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How do we run a seasonal ice skating rink on HOA common area?

By OurHOA · General information · Revised

How an HOA board builds and runs a winter ice skating rink on common area: site, water source, flooding crew, lights, rules, insurance and spring turf repair.

Part of the HOA board handbook: vendors, projects and upkeep.

The short answer

A volunteer-built rink on the common area lawn is one of the cheapest amenities an HOA can offer, and one of the easiest to get wrong. The ice itself is simple. The work is in the parts boards skip: where the water comes from, who floods it at 10 p.m. in January, who keeps kids off the retention pond next door, and who pays when the grass underneath is dead in April. Before anyone buys a liner, get four things settled in writing: a site the board has approved, a water source the utility allows, a named crew with a lead, and an answer from your insurance agent. Then adopt short rules and a teardown date. Rules on amenity use, notice and enforcement vary by state and by your governing documents, so treat this as general guidance and check new rules with your association attorney.

Pick the site and the method

Look for a flat, open patch of lawn near a water spigot and a power source, away from slopes, storm drains and the pond. Slope means deeper water at the low end. Do the water math before you pick a size. A 40 by 80 foot rink at 3 inches deep holds about 800 cubic feet of ice, which is roughly 6,000 gallons of water, before you count the resurfacing floods. There are two ways to build it. A frame of boards with a plastic liner holds water from the first cold night and gives smoother ice. A packed-snow base needs no liner, but you need real snow and several days of hard cold to seal it, and the first floods soak through. A rink is realistic where winters stay cold for weeks, which in this audience means much of Colorado. Texas and Florida boards who want skating are better served by renting a portable rink for a holiday event, with the vendor's certificate of insurance on file, than by building one.

Settle the water source before you build

Most common area irrigation systems are drained and blown out before the first freeze, so the sprinkler lines are not an option. You need a frost-free spigot at the clubhouse or a pool house, and permission from whoever pays that water bill. Read the meter before the first flood and after teardown so the treasurer can see what the rink cost. Do not open a fire hydrant. Water utilities control hydrant use, and some ban exactly this. Denver Water's hydrant use program lists ice rinks among the uses hydrant water is not permitted for, and says hydrants cannot be operated in freezing weather, below 32 degrees, except by fire department personnel in an emergency. Its hydrant policy sets penalties of $500 for a first violation, $1,000 for a second, and $1,500 plus a 90-day permit suspension for a third. Other utilities set their own rules, so call yours rather than assuming. Store the hose indoors between floods, since a frozen hose ends the night's work.

Build, flood and resurface

Set the frame after the ground freezes and the grass has gone dormant. Lay the liner with enough slack to climb the boards, and clip it to the top edge rather than stapling through it. Flood the first layer only when the forecast shows several nights well below freezing. Thin layers freeze clear and strong. One deep pour freezes on top, leaves water underneath and cracks when the first skater steps on it. After the base is solid, resurface with a light flood on cold evenings, after the day's skating ends. Shovel the snow off before you flood, every time, because snow mixed into the water makes soft, white ice. Give the crew a sign-up sheet with two people per night and one lead who decides whether the rink is open. The lead posts a status each afternoon, open or closed, on the community email list or a sign at the gate.

Keep people off the pond

Once a rink opens, someone will decide the retention pond looks just as good. It is not. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources says to stay off ice less than 4 inches thick, and to double its thickness guidelines for white ice, which forms when snow melts and refreezes on the surface. It also lists currents, springs and snow cover among the factors that change ice strength, and stormwater ponds have inflow pipes, outfalls and often an aerator or fountain that keeps water open. Thickness can vary a lot across one pond. Post the pond as closed to skating and walking for the whole winter, put the reason on the sign, and repeat it in every rink announcement. Ask your pond contractor whether the aerator should run this winter, and if it does, the open water around it is one more reason for the sign. Our guide on how to set up an HOA retention pond maintenance schedule covers the winter checks that go with this.

Lights, power and a warming fire

Evening skating means lights, and lights near water mean ground fault protection. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission's GFCI fact sheet notes that the National Electrical Code has required GFCI protection on outdoor receptacles since 1973, and that portable GFCIs give on-the-spot protection where the circuit does not have it. Run lights from a GFCI-protected outdoor outlet, use cords rated for outdoor use, keep every connection up off the ice and snow, and put the lights on a timer that matches your posted hours. A fire pit next to the rink is popular and adds its own rules. Our guide on how to run a common-area fire pit at an HOA amenity covers burn bans, distances and who puts it out.

Rules, insurance and the closure notice

Call your insurance agent before the frame goes up. Ask whether the general liability policy covers a volunteer-built rink on common area, whether volunteers are covered while they build and flood it, and whether the carrier wants posted rules, a sign-in sheet or a signed waiver. Ask your attorney whether a waiver means much in your state before you rely on one. Keep the rules short: hours, skate at your own risk, children under a set age with an adult, no hockey sticks or pucks during open skate unless you set hockey hours, no pets on the ice, and closed when the lead says so. In Colorado, CRS 38-33.3-302.5, added by HB 22-1040, says the association may not unreasonably restrict owners' use of common elements, and if it restricts access to a common element for more than 72 hours it must send owners an electronic or written notice and post a notice at each access point with the reason, the expected end date and a contact. A rink that takes over the lawn for three months is worth noticing that way. To enforce the rules, use the process you already have. Texas Property Code 209.006 requires certified-mail notice before suspending an owner's use of a common area or levying a fine, with a cure period and the right to request a hearing within 30 days. Florida 720.305(2) requires at least 14 days' written notice and a hearing before a committee of at least three members who are not officers, directors or employees. Colorado CRS 38-33.3-209.5(1)(b)(IV) requires a written enforcement policy with notice and hearing procedures.

Spring teardown and the grass underneath

Set the teardown date in the motion, not by mood. A liner left on warm spring days cooks the grass under it. When the rink closes, pump or siphon the meltwater toward a drain that can take it, not onto a neighbor's lot, then pull the liner and boards and store them dry. Expect some damage to the turf. UMass Extension's fact sheet on winter injury says annual bluegrass and perennial ryegrass can be killed by 75 to 90 days or less of ice cover, while Kentucky bluegrass and creeping bentgrass can tolerate 150 days or more. It also warns that annual bluegrass can green up and then die, so wait a few weeks before judging the patch, and that early spring seeding usually needs a higher seeding rate. Ask your landscaper for a spring repair price before the rink is approved, put it in the rink budget, and compare it with the season's water bill. That is the real cost of the rink.

A sample season, a motion and a sign

October: board approves site, budget and crew lead; insurance agent answers in writing. November: frame set after the ground freezes; utility and spigot confirmed. December: first floods on cold nights, rink opens when the lead says the ice is solid; pond closure signs go up. January and February: nightly resurfacing by the crew, daily open or closed post. March: teardown by the date in the motion, meltwater pumped, liner stored. April: turf repaired, water and repair costs reported to the board. Sample motion: "I move that the board approve a seasonal ice rink on the north lawn from December 1 to March 15, with a budget of $1,500 for materials, water and spring turf repair, appoint the grounds committee chair as rink lead, adopt the rink rules as presented, and direct the secretary to send owners the required notice of the lawn closure." Sample sign: "Ice rink open dusk to 9 p.m. when posted open. Skate at your own risk. Children under 12 with an adult. No pucks or sticks during open skate. No pets on the ice. The pond is closed to all skating and walking." The common mistakes are flooding too deep on a marginal night, using a hydrant or the irrigation system, letting no one own the open or closed call, leaving the liner down into April and never asking the insurer.

Sources

These guides are general education for HOA boards and residents, not legal, tax, or financial advice. Rules vary by state and by your community's governing documents - check with a professional for your situation.

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